For the next two weeks we are exploring the Mediterranean. We’ll start in Spain, with stops in France, Italy, Corsica, Gibraltar, and Morocco. Some would call the Mediterranean a foodies paradise. So far, it’s everything I had hoped for.
Our first stop is the Gothic quarter in Barcelona. The city is full of amazing architecture, tapas, and wine and beer cafes. Barcelona is a beautiful city. There is no doubting that people here love their food. Anthony Bourdain says the best food in the world can be found here and he’s not kidding. There is a tapas bar and café around every corner, markets filled with meats, cheeses, fruits and veggies, and the fun goes deep in into the night and morning. After all, this is the home of El Bulli, considered by most the best restaurant in the world. (No, I didn’t go to there, they were booked solid through 2008.)
After grabbing some pastries and coffee at La Boulangerie, we explored the city a bit. Which included the amazing baroque Catholic Church, La Sagrada Familia and Park Guell, both designed by famed artist and architect Antoni Gaudi. Gaudi began construction on La Sagrada Familia in 1882. It isn’t estimated to be completed for another 25 years, long after his death in 1926. It’s an architectural marvel inspired by his naturalistic, singular and organic style.
We worked up a hunger, and thirst, so on our first stop we stumbled upon Bosc de les Fades Café. A quaint, dark, little mystical tavern, decorated with trees, fountains, and even a fake thunder storm that would sound off every 20 min or so. The lights would dim, then the sound of rain and thunder came barreling over the speakers and a bright white light would flash, simulating lightning. I downed a glass of Spain’s national beer called Estancia Damm, and we headed off in search of some tapas and sangria.
After hoping on the metro to get out of the Gothic district and into Barceloneta along the oceanfront, we came to find out that our tapas destination, El Vaso de oro, is closed during the month of September. So we settled on Mikel Extea, a famous tapas joint in the Gothic district just off Las Ramblas.
The sangria was delightful. The fruit soaked wine was perfectly sweetened with just a little sugar and citrus. The albondigas was reminiscent of a Spanish grandmother’s stew, with peas, carrots and mushrooms, all sitting in a light tomato broth with the meatballs. The potatas bravas were different than I had had in the states. Drenched in a spicy, mayonnaise sauce, the potatoes didn’t have much flavor and were baked, but not crisp. It was the paella here that stood out. Easily the best I had ever had. The bottom of the rice in the hot pan was crisp, the top was swimming with flavor from the mussels, clams, langostine and chicken.
Next was the Pinotxo bar in the famous La Boqaria. An open air market filled with fruits and veggies, butcher shops and counter top tapas bars. I was in heaven with the enormous amounts of Jamon Iberico everywhere, hanging by their hooves, the delicious salted pork waiting to be devoured with a loaf of bread and some cheese. (Remind me to check out Bar Pinxto when I get back in the states, so I can say how great Pinoxto in Barcelona was and sound super cool.)
After finally squeezing into a counter seat at Pinotxo, we were greeted with smiles and broken English, with no menu it was just sort of point and eat. We ordered delicate croquettes filled with various meats, seafood and cheese, a delicious sausage, and an unbelievable beef stew. I could have sat there all day and tried everything. But my stomach is only so big and we had to get headed to the ship. There is plenty more food waiting for us on our adventures ahead, next stop Provance, France.
* Special thanks to Zane from Three Sheets and Marta for the excellent recommendations in Barcelona!
September 30th, 2008 at 9:44 pm
Bring back some of that Iberian ham. Or, just have a blast!
Regarding eating in Rome, shortly after the visit I shared with friends:
“When in Rome eat at Osteria Bar Gulleto on Piazza Farnese. The French embassy rests across the sun kissed square. It’s quiet, beautiful, delicious, and cash only. (Thanks, Vince!)
Update: We went back. Credit cards accepted. We presume the previously required cash transaction enabled a bit of self-service by the, well, service. Still highly recommended.”
September 30th, 2008 at 11:22 pm
Ahhhh… Spain. Thanks for bringing back the memories. Spent New Year’s there last year. Have to agree, the tapas, the food and people are the best.
If you’d like me to share a couple of tapas, just let me know.
Cheers
Joe
September 30th, 2008 at 11:50 pm
The food is amazing Joe, I can see why Tapas bars are so hip in the states.
And thanks for the tip Eric I will try and check it out!